The Brutal Truth About Sustainability and Fashion

Wardrobes filled with the latest clothes, bags, accessories, and shoes are a classic sight in the homes of most fashion lovers who follow trends. For some, these items are more expensive, for others cheaper, but they generally share this: wardrobes adapt to every new trend, worn-out clothes are thrown away, and new ones are bought at a frantic pace. This might not be problematic if data did not show that in 2021, the fashion industry’s share of global carbon dioxide production was between eight and ten percent, and twenty percent in global plastic production, with the production of our clothes being among the largest polluters, according to Vogue Business.

However, loving fashion and destroying nature do not have to be synonymous. Sustainable fashion is not a novelty, so perhaps we should take a look into our wardrobes and see what we can change. The first to change could be habits, but also the materials we buy. Unnatural, non-recyclable, and low-quality materials full of chemicals are one of the key problems in this industry. While recycled polyester is being marketed as sustainable fashion even though it is made from plastic, smaller sustainable brands are increasingly developing innovative products and using innovative materials of a new generation. Although changing the fashion industry is not simple, thoughtful production can at least make a small step towards reducing carbon footprints, waste, and overproduction.

Eco and Aesthetically Appealing

Mirjam Krajina, a costume designer and the mind behind the Raw Bag brand, is an example of those trying to promote sustainability in fashion in the domestic market. The brand she launched during the first wave of the coronavirus is most notable for its clothing made from recycled materials, which is why very little textile is used in their production.

– The idea came to me during the first wave of COVID when we had more than enough time in quarantine to think about creative things. I started from my pantry where I found used bags that I wanted to make into a more durable shopping bag – Krajina explained, adding that fashion itself is a large circle that rotates and aesthetically repurposes, so she sees no reason why all of it should not be recycled and sustainable in modern life.

Another positive example among those introducing change is the well-known brand Miret, launched by brothers Domagoj and Josip Boljar. They secured their place in the competitive market with their eco-sneakers made from 97 percent natural materials. They began applying a sustainable approach after years of work in the footwear industry during which they gained insight into the industry’s harmfulness. The materials they use today in production are completely natural and, besides having quality properties and a low carbon footprint, are not harmful to human health.

– We selected the materials we use based on their properties and possibilities, looking for those that are not harmful, yet durable and meet the criteria for producing quality, comfortable, and attractive sneakers – they explained at Miret.

They use, for example, untreated 100 percent wool, which is an excellent thermal regulator, natural rubber for the sole, and cork and hemp for the interior of the sneakers. It is also important to emphasize that, despite prejudices, design does not suffer from the use of sustainable materials.

– Good design and collection are always visually appealing. Likewise, if the design is visually and conceptually poor, there is no help for it. This has nothing to do with the sustainability of fashion – Krajina emphasized.

Buy and Throw Away

Although both brands have an audience in Croatia and receive positive reactions, which proves that at least part of the population chooses sustainable fashion, it is still, as both Krajina and the Boljar brothers agree, not sufficiently recognized. Therefore, it is necessary to raise the level of awareness among citizens, in which institutions, education, media, and public figures play a role, with Krajina emphasizing that they should support small sustainable brands because it is important for as many people as possible to be educated and recognize the concept of sustainability. The director of the Profokus Vocational School, Branka Vučetić Atletić, M.Sc. Eng. Des. Tex., emphasizes that sustainable fashion has not taken root in Croatia or the rest of Europe. For a breakthrough towards such fashion, she believes everyone should give up some clothing, footwear, and all fashion accessories.

– If we ask the average consumer to name a fashion brand that produces clothes that can be recycled, we certainly will not get an answer. Designers are often burdened with the responsibility of not creating sustainable fashion, but they are not the only culprits for the lack of consumption of this trend. Most work in a system where the trend of quantity is imposed on everyone. Also, the average consumer does not understand the difference between conventionally grown cotton and organically grown cotton; rather, it is important to them to have five modern coats made from cheap acrylic that mimics wool in the season – Vučetić Atletić explained.

– The materials we can recycle, such as cotton, linen, wool, hemp, leather, and some synthetic fibers, cannot be produced in such quantities that would satisfy today’s consumer appetites – Vučetić Atletić noted.

Mass Mentality

She also added that one of the fundamental issues is the mentality of discarding clothing. In recent decades, fashion has become disposable, and purchasing has been reduced to quantity instead of lasting quality. Now, in one season, we buy more than we did in two years before. Changing such thinking would be a good step towards sustainability, as consumer habits have nearly doubled since 2000, and the fashion sector today generates approximately forty million tons of textile waste annually, according to BBC Earth.

– In ‘ordinary fashion,’ immediate appeal, cheap production, and the use of synthetic fabrics are important. We must know that the lifespan of such clothing is short. That is indeed its goal: to force us into new purchases. We already feel that climate change is happening. If we selfishly support something harmful, such as the hyperproduction of clothing that buries and pollutes the environment, we cannot expect anything beautiful. Can we imagine sitting in beautiful attire surrounded by plastic bags, piles of old sneakers, and tons of women’s polyester bags? And what good is beautiful attire then? – Vučetić Atletić emphasized.

Wool, Pineapple, and Mushrooms

So while it cannot be expected that, even if we are advocates of sustainable fashion, we will not buy new clothing, footwear, and accessories, our examples show that we can find sustainable options even in Croatia. At Miret, they state that most materials used in the production of standard footwear are made from petroleum derivatives and are a source of microplastics that pollute the soil, sea, air, and water, ultimately ending up on our plates. The second most used material, they noted, is leather, which is actually full of toxic chemicals, and its production process creates heaps of waste. At the same time, there are many natural and non-toxic materials that are perfect substitutes for the materials we have become accustomed to.

– An ideal sustainable product would be compostable, recyclable, made from renewable, sustainably grown biomaterials, locally sourced, locally produced, extremely durable, and CO₂ neutral. Many people encountering ‘Mirets’ for the first time often cannot believe that our sneakers are almost entirely made from plants and wool. The plants we use actually have better properties and capabilities than most synthetic materials, which is why such materials and products can look better than ‘ordinary’ products. The key is knowledge about using the right materials for specific components and product design – they state at Miret.

The increasing use of wool is proving to be a good trend as it is renewable, durable, and biodegradable. Lyocell, which consists of cellulose fibers, is a material whose production process has little impact on the environment. Among the innovative materials in global fashion, ‘plant leather’ made from pineapple has also emerged. Piñatex is a material made from the leaves of pineapples grown in the Philippines. Its production is much more sustainable than traditional leather production, requiring less water and containing no harmful chemicals. As BBC Earth notes, this material is currently being used for upholstery in the first vegan hotel apartment in London.

Only Profit

That changes are happening, especially on a global level, is evidenced by the fact that Stella McCartney launched her first bag made from mylo, an alternative leather made from mushroom roots, and Gucci’s owner Kering invested in the startup VitroLabs, which is engaged in lab-grown leather. However, how much sustainable pieces will flood domestic streets remains a question. At Miret, they certainly notice positive trends and increasing engagement from both companies and individuals, hoping that in the near future, such fashion will truly dominate Croatian streets. They see every step towards sustainable production as a step in a positive direction. Nevertheless, they do not expect such a scenario in the near future, as it requires educating not only individuals but also companies, i.e., manufacturers.

– I have been in the fashion world for too long not to see the truth. Fashion has historically been the greatest manipulator: playing with ethics and aesthetics, all for material gain. To succeed in changing something, designers should unite, which is impossible because there is too much narcissism and egocentrism in that world. To launch mass sustainable fashion, a decision from the textile industry is also needed. Changes are only possible if we re-educate large systems, i.e., the textile industry on a global level – concluded Vučetić Atletić.

So while the clothing industry awaits an alternative that offers a more sustainable future and reduces the carbon footprint of this sector, additional resources and efforts will be needed to develop new materials and raise awareness about them.